Family-run Dordogne restaurant wins acclaim for historical menus and peasant gastronomy
A small family-run restaurant in the Dordogne village of Saint-Michel-de-Double has earned praise from France's culinary establishment for its innovative approach to regional cuisine and immersive historical dining experiences.
La P'tite Table d'Alix, opened in 2023 by Rémy Puicercus and Solenne Saunier, has received recognition from the prestigious Gault & Millau restaurant guide—founded in 1969 and featuring nearly 2,500 French establishments rated from 1 to 5 toques—as well as from Le Petit Futé and Nadine Lechon, the Assemblée nationale member representing the 1st constituency of Dordogne.
The couple relocated to the rural village of 228 inhabitants after spending a decade in Arcachon Bay, where Puicercus worked as a sommelier and consultant for several Michelin-starred chefs while Saunier served as a nursing assistant.
Farm-to-table philosophy in a tiny venue
Operating from a dining room with just 12 to 20 covers, the restaurant offers a deliberately limited menu of six dishes: two starters, two mains, and two desserts. The establishment opens Thursday and Friday evenings, serves lunch and dinner on Saturdays, and lunch on Sundays.
Puicercus dedicates eight to ten hours weekly to sourcing fresh produce from markets in nearby Saint-Astier and Ribérac, determining each week's offerings based on what he finds. Everything served is made in-house, from pasta and bread to sauces.
Le Petit Futé praised the couple's gastro-paysanne fusion cuisine, describing it as a blend of tradition, creativity and sophistication. Lechon wrote in her letter of congratulation that such initiatives bring dynamism to rural life while showcasing the region's terroir.
Transforming the dining room through time
The restaurant's monthly historical menus have attracted particular attention. For these occasions, the entire space is transformed to reflect the chosen era.
In June, the couple presented a menu centered on Auguste Escoffier, the legendary French chef known as the king of chefs and the chef of kings. Escoffier, who lived from 1846 to 1935, modernized French cuisine and created enduring dishes such as Tournedos Rossini and Peach Melba. His 1903 publication Le Guide Culinaire introduced some 5,000 recipes and developed the brigade de cuisine system that revolutionized professional kitchen management.
Another menu commemorated the Great Frost of 1709, the coldest European winter in 500 years. Temperatures plunged to -15°C or lower, triggering crop failures and famine that claimed an estimated 600,000 lives in France by the end of 1710. The themed dishes included soft-boiled egg and duck breast, evoking the scarcity of that devastating period.
Perhaps most poignant was the Poilu Menu, honoring the French infantrymen of the First World War. The term poilu, meaning hairy one, referred to the untidy, unshaven soldiers who endured brutal trench warfare. Nearly 70 percent of the 8.3 million French infantrymen became casualties, with 1.4 million killed and 4.2 million wounded—representing over 30 percent of all Allied casualties. The menu featured rata, a stew eaten in the trenches, boiled fowl, and bread dipped in cheap wine topped with Camembert, all prepared and served in authentic mess tins.
Welcoming international guests
The restaurant has attracted numerous English-speaking visitors, reflecting the Dordogne's significant British expatriate community. When necessary, Puicercus translates the menu into English, though he jokes about doing so with a local accent.
For reservations, guests can call 06 67 10 34 91. Updates on future dinner themes are posted on the restaurant's Facebook page, La P'tite Table d'Alix.
